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The Maya represent a culture that demonstrates how tradition and technology can thrive together. This Maya woman, dressed in the traditional Mayan falda – or skirt – fills the tank of her scooter at a local gas station: Guatemala truly is the “Land of Contrasts.” I love what it symbolizes… progression without losing the rich attributes of the past.

text and photo by Laura McNamara

Photographing green is an obsession for me. There is something about the way green looks when it’s captured by camera. I will always invariably shoot all things green. I captured this “palm umbrella” while I was at Panza Verde for Yoga class early Monday morning. I think the blurred white cupola and the rich, blue sky truly help set off the brilliant green hue of the palm.

Speaking of favorites: another “photo-fetish” I seem to have is hands. I love photographing hands. What are some of your favorites?

text and photo by Laura McNamara

Okay, so I’m going to need some help with this one. I know Rudy has an abundant sign collection and I thought that this might make a good addition. I really like the stark contrasts between light and dark, and black and white in the photo. And, it’s tried, tested and proven: red always draws attention.

The only problem is, I have NO CLUE where this Quirox sign is or what it is. I took it while on my “photo-binge” traipsing across La Antigua from one art exposition to another. I can’t remember where I was when my shutter-craze resulted in this image.

Any ideas?

text and photo by Laura McNamara

The whimsical, timeless allure of La Antigua’s colonial architecture, peacefully protected ruins and cobbled streets is a common theme of which I’ll never tire. This door, this “portal to an ancient world” fills my imagination. I envision erect Don’s and Doña’s of years past, prevailing over a newly established colony under the looming shadows of Volcanoes Agua, Fuego, and Acatenango. The question of what life was like when the ruins were not ruins, but grand temples of stature and wealth is a constant pondering that nags at me. But, walking through these infamous streets everyday means that I can do everything but escape such persistent thoughts.

What do you think? What kind of world once lived behind that door?

text and photo by Laura McNamara

From the self-portrait above it’s obvious I was in quite the “alternative art” mood. But, being at my third art exposition for the night, I couldn’t help it. Saturday was a whirlwind of creative stimulation. First, the “Laberinto de Miradas. Colectivos Fotográficos en Iberoamérca” exposition at the Centro Cultural de España. Next, the grand opening of El Carmen Galería de Arte. Finally, Bill Ipsan’s urban art presentation in Hotel Casa Santo Domingo.

As a photographer myself, all this art most absolutely stoked the flames of my own creative fire. Charged with inspiration, I couldn’t take my hand off the shutter all night. Even though most of the time the light was terrible, I still had to try every idea that flashed through my mind. For me, viewing others’ art makes me feel as if my own creativity is free to be well… more free. Witnessing the work of someone who took a risk to express themselves – sometimes in a most vulnerable way, gives me a confidence-boost to do the same.

Thus, this self-portrait of me viewing a series of portraits of autistic children is one of the results of my “shutter-binge” Saturday night.

text and photo by Laura McNamara

The warning came from behind: “Please, we’re really not supposed to be taking photos of the art here.” I had just snapped this picture when I spun around to see who was trying to tell ME not to take photos.

“Hi, I’m Bill Ipsan and I’d prefer if the artwork was not photographed.” Ah, the artist. Little did he know that I was taking photos for my new project ArteAntigua.com – an effort to round up all the fun, crazy things happening with art here in Antigua and post information about it in one central website. But, I just shrugged and said “Okay…“ I had already captured some good shots and I knew that the one I just took was the “it” photo that I would end up taking at the exhibit anyway. It was too spontaneously perfect.

“So what do you do?” Ipsan warmly inquired. He obviously didn’t want to come across as an artist prick because it was obvious that’s not who he was… and I can certainly understand an artist protecting his art.

“I’m a journalist,” I confidently shot back.

“Oh well! If it’s for journalism feel free to take as many photos as you want!” It looks like Billy was a fan of promoting his work. Jejejeje. The spoils of being a journalist! There are times I’ve marched right into backstage declaring: “Journalist!” Works most of the time.

Anyway, Ipsan was an “absolute charmer,” as my painter friend Geovany Flores put it. I’d have to agree. Ipsan is super “amable.” I explained my new project to him and he quickly offered to get together for a proper interview. Ipsan’s work is being displayed in Hotel Casa Santo Domingo and the artist will be here for about another month. You can learn more through my interview with him on ArteAntigua.com.

text and photo by Laura McNamara

This is just one of those rare shots you get when the opportunity strikes. I was scrolling through my email when my roommate suddenly burst out laughing. I looked up to find the house cat, “Gringo,” cruelly toying with its newfound prey… a lagartija, or lizard. The cat had wounded the pour creature and was simply reveling in torturing it: pouncing on it and sending it quickly scrambling nowhere fast on the slick, tiled floor. While I felt sorry for it, my photographer-instinct flared and instead of saving it, I photographed it. I couldn’t pass up the rare opportunity to take a photo of an animal that is usually too wily for humans to get so close. Unfortunately, the light was terrible. Still, I think I still managed to get a pretty cool shot!

text and photos by Laura McNamara

Sweet. Refreshing. Natural. Licuados are one of those treats that truly define a Guatemalan experience. The blended fruit drinks can be found most anywhere in La Antigua from fancy restaurants to local, hole-in-the-wall comedors… and I absolutely LOVE them. They are nothing more than fruit blended with your choice of water, milk, yogurt and, sometimes, orange juice. Often, sugar is added but I always ask for mine to come “sin azucar.” Usually fruit here in Guate is so perfectly ripe (as you can see from the pics) that any added sweetner would be too much… at least for me. So what is it, exactly, that makes licuados so addictive?

The idea of what are essentially smoothies is certainly nothing new to me, a U.S.-native. But, where I’m from in the Midwest, they just aren’t so prevalent. Here, in Guate, there is truly a licuado culture, a licuado craze even. It’s just as common to suggest to a friend to “let’s go grab a licuado” as it is to suggest meeting for a coffee. And this licuado culture has taught me to be more creative with my own smoothie concoctions. Never had I heard using papaya, honeydew or watermelon in a blended drink before coming to Central America… and now those are my top three favorites. Just the other day, the woman whom I rented a room from threw starfruit mixed with orange in her own, homemade version. It tasted quite “rico” as well.

It’s safe to say I’m addicted to these treats. I used to go hunker down to work online at Rainbow Café just so I could sip on a papaya-yogurt licuado while tackling my “to-do list.” It didn’t take me long to find the cheapest licuados in town though. At the market, you can usually order a licuado with water for Q7. At El Merendor it will cost you Q8. Looking for a spot more “oriente” go to Cookies where a licuado with water also costs Q7. Just add a quetzal or two for anything blended with milk or yogurt. Anywhere else, licuados usually cost around Q15 to Q20.

text and photos by Laura McNamara

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So who’s fit to go on such a daredevil adventure of soaring like a bird? Antigua Canopy Tours assures that anyone from the age of five an older can go, provided the participant possesses a reasonably healthy physical condition. That means even toddlers and grandparents can “fly” if they’re brave enough. Children under the age of 12 must be accompanied by a parent or someone else responsible for their care. Children under 120 cm in height (about 47 in.) can “fly” while physically attached to a guide. That being said, Antigua Canopy Tours Manager Pascu Robredo broke the rules just a bit and sent his 2 ½ year-old daughter on a solo “flight.” How did she do? Check out the video below:

That wraps up the series on Antigua Canopy Tours. Again, a huge thanks to Rudy and Manager Pascu Robredo!

text by Laura McNamara and photo by Pascu Robredo

Antigua Canopy Tours isn’t just about the unique experience of gliding… it’s about gliding through a tropical rainforest or cloud forest canopy. It’s about experiencing nature in an unforgettable way.

Finca Filadelfia operates over a sprawling 750 acres, 660 of which are used for farming. One-fourth of the farm is strictly preserved as an ecological reserve area and another similar area is dedicated to reforestation programs. Ninety-six percent of the farmed land is protected by trees, creating a unique ecological habitat. This is important, the operation says, for growing their “cash crop:” coffee.

“The art of high quality coffee production demands a profound respect and understanding of the coffee plants and the ecosystems where it thrives. In order to produce the best coffee in the world, we must create a special ecosystem termed ‘agroecosystem’ where coffee can express its potential quality as well as preserve the environment.”

As a result, hundreds of birds can be found nesting within the grounds of Finca Filadelfia making it a prime location for bird watching. More than 130 different species of birds can be found on the farm, 30 of which are endemic species including exotic hummingbirds, jays, hawks, and cuckoos.

As part of the canopy tour, visitors will get to observe both flora and fauna at high altitudes, not to mention the excellent views of La Antigua Guatemala and surrounding communities: San Juan del Obispo, San Felipe de Jesús, Ciudad Vieja and other “aldeas.” Aside from coffee, I spotted olive trees, avocado trees, Gravileas and more on my tour. Needless to say, if you’re not up for darting through the trees like a bird the Forest Trail option is more than worth your while.

text and photo by Laura McNamara

“The three most important factors for the canopy tour are security, a family-oriented experience and promoting nature,” Antigua Canopy Tours Manager Pascu Robredo asserts.

And man do they take security seriously. Before obtaining permission to participate in the canopy adventure visitors are asked a series of questions about their health to ensure they are in suitable condition to “fly” among the treetops. Pregnant women, for example, are discouraged from participating. The adventure company asks for visitors to please advise their guides of any special health issues, incapacities, etc… such as heart problems, epilepsy, asthmatic problems and/or problems with equilibrium. Furthermore, each participant is required to sign a waiver before his/her “flights.”

The guides that lead visitors are trained in the specialized techniques required for helping the participants swing through the canopy, from one platform to the other. When visitors arrive at the first platform (see El Santuario) the guides give a thorough explanation of the correct way to soar: legs up, knees bent, rocking back slightly in your harness. With your stronger hand reach back behind your head and loosely form an “O” around the cable with your thumb and index finger. With your weaker hand grasp the lowest clip (attached to your harness) by reaching your index finger through the loop and wrapping the rest of your hand around the clip. Visitors remain connected to either a cable or a tree platform for the entire duration of the adventure in order to safeguard against falls or minor accidents of any kind. The guides, most of whom speak both Spanish and English, are also qualified in First Aid care, CPR and vertical rescue.

As mentioned in the Constructing a Canopy Course post, the tracks themselves are constructed with a double-cable that can hold five times more than the allotted weight. And again, only professional, internationally recognized equipment is used, such as PETZL and PMI.

Antigua Canopy Tours has an emergency protocol in place and the business conducts regular inspections of the maintenance of the track and the equipment used. I personally witnessed one of my guides “Tono” marking a permanently placed inspection sheet located on the course. All participants, visitors and guides alike, are required to wear a helmet while enjoying the canopy adventure. You can spot the guides by the red helmets they wear. Visitors wear white.

Visitors should consider the natural environment of the tour when dressing for the adventure. High heels are absolutely prohibited. Pants, a T-shirt and athletic shoes or secured sandals are recommended (flip flops are also prohibited). In case of rain, visitors are recommended to bring protective rain cover. Antigua Canopy Tours asks for participants to refrain from smoking while on the tour and advises visitors not to wear insect repellent to ensure their safety while secured to a harness.

Antigua Canopy Tours outlines several other requirements regarding physical fitness. Basically, you should be up for a slight, minimally strenuous hike. You might not want to go if you are one to seriously freak because of heights. A little apprehension is normal, but don’t go if you can’t chill on a tree-mounted platform that sits several meters from the ground. Nonetheless, Antigua Canopy Tours says a fear of heights is something their guides are prepared to mitigate. The adventure company assures that their canopy course is an exciting adventure that all must experience.

text and photos by Laura McNamara

“We could see the topography was just perfect,” Victor Gallo confidently asserted. Victor Gallo is the expert Antigua Canopy Tours hired to construct its professional and secure canopy zipline course. Gallo says the terrain is ripe with dense oak trees, which is crucial. Hardwood trees are an absolute necessity when constructing a canopy tour because the cables can and do place a considerable amount of stress on the trees: literally TONS of stress in fact.

Built as a double-cable course Gallo says the canopy adventure of Antigua Canopy Tours can hold up to 500 lbs, while still maintaining a safety margin of five to one. What that means is the system is five times stronger than the maximum weight (500 lbs). Gallo says each cable can support 25,000 lbs of tension – that’s 25 tons. So in order to remain within the five to one safety margin that means 5,000 lbs, or 5 tons, of tension can be safely applied to the system. Yet, on average, a person uses just 3,000 to 3,500 lbs (3 to 3.5 tons) of tension. The system, Gallo says, is well above the margin.

The extent of stress and tension used when visitors soar across the treetops is why hardwood trees are so critical for the operation. Oak and Holm oak are commonly used trees in canopy tours that are constructed at a higher altitude. Conacaste trees, also known as Elephant’s Ear, are commonly used for canopy courses in lower, tropical climates.

Gallo and his crew don’t bolt a cable to just any hardwood tree, however. After identifying several possible candidates in an ideal landing zone, Gallo calls in a dendrologist – a tree surgeon or tree specialist. By considering the size and volume of the tree and inspecting the condition of the tree’s roots, the dendrologist determines if a tree is suitable for use in the canopy tour circuit.

Next, the crew wired up the course with specialized, Vectran fiber cables (known for their strength and durability in high temperatures) in the Forest Express course. They use a 1/2 inch thick cable (for extra long tracks) in the Canyon Express course. Can you imagine how, exactly, canopy course riggers can string more than 500 meters of cable across a ravine? Gallo says he uses a crossbow. First, his crew will launch a thin line from the crossbow. Gallo said the longest track in the Antigua Canopy Tours course (520 meters) took about 15 shots. Then, after untangling the line from forest foliage when necessary and attaching it to the selected trees, Gallo’s team will use the thin line to pull a thicker, stronger line across the length of the track. Next, they use the thicker line to string up a heavier rope (about 11 mm in diameter). Finally, they use the heavy rope to pull across first one, then two strong cables that will be used for transporting visitors through the treetop adventure at Finca Filadelfia.

Gallo and his crew choose to bolt the cables to the tree versus wrapping them around the trunks like some other operations. Gallo explains that bolting the cable is better for a couple of reasons. First, he says, attaching the cable in this way is like giving the tree a piercing. In time, the tree will heal around the “piercing” with a scar-like response. However, Gallo says if a cable is wrapped around the trunk, it will eventually end up strangling the tree as it tries to grow and its trunk attempts to expand.

As a current member of the ACCT (Association of Challenge Course Technology), Gallo has more than 6 ½ years of experience of installing canopy courses through his company Adventure Playground. Plus, the El Salvador native (but Costa Rican resident) can boast many more years of climbing experience – he began climbing when he attended university in Colorado. His rigging work isn’t limited just to canopy and ropes courses though. Gallo has also constructed special rigging operations for various commercial and movie sets. Furthermore, the adventure ace owns his own bungee operation, Tropical Bungee, in Costa Rica. I think it’s safe to say that Gallo is quite the revered expert.

And, he acts like one. Gallo insists on stressing safety guidelines and standards when constructing his courses. He became a member of the ACCT five years ago and, with his expertise, he managed to spearhead the creation of a new committee within the association that was focused primarily on canopy courses. In January of this year, newer, more complete ACCT standards were created specifically for canopy tour operations. This was important, Gallo says, because “the idea of actually traveling through the forest is kind of a different one,” from what the association was used to considering. Canopy courses use much longer ziplines than challenge courses. And dismounting platforms did not previously exist with the smaller challenge course operations. Plus, Gallo says it’s important to have a set of standards with which to comply:

“Anybody can hook a cable to a tree without knowing what they’re doing, without knowing anything about angles and strengths,” Gallo said.

Gallo has experienced and constructed his fair share of canopy tours. One aspect of Antigua Canopy Tours that really stands out for him, though, is the UNIMOG. Both experiences compliment each other well the rigger said.

As far as the fear factor? Gallo says canopy tours can be fun for all ages and, he believes that most have already experienced something similar.

“I think everyone as a child has had a zipline experience in one way or another,” Gallo said. “Maybe a swing rope or something. And for people to travel up high through the forest and experience that feeling of flight through the canopy is really unique. What’s great is anybody can do it no matter age, size or physical condition.”

Canopy tours have been operating as an adventure course for tourists since 1997. So just what, exactly, prompted someone to think, ‘Hey! I’m going to string hundreds of meters of cable between two trees so I can glide over the forest!” Can you imagine being the very first to try? The idea was born when a Costa Rican biologist wanted to move about among the canopies of trees he was researching – sixty percent or more of tropical wildlife makes its home in the canopy. Thus, Donald Perry began building bridges and various cable routes that comprise what is called a Tyrolean Traverse. A canopy tour is constructed with a series of these very Tyrolean Traverses that are installed at a slight angle.

text by Laura McNamara and photos by Pascu Robredo

Platform One is where the “flying” begins. After a thorough explanation and demonstration of the special techniques required to properly enjoy the Antigua Canopy Tour, visitors launch into their first “flight” from what has been fondly referred to as “El Sanctuario.”

Antigua Canopy Tours Manager Pascu Robredo explains that the nickname refers to the quick utterance of whispered prayers as nervous participants anticipate dangling suspended from a cable in mid-air… for the first time. “Their adrenaline really starts pumping,” Robredo said with a slightly mischievous twinkle in his eye.

Oh so brave daredevil that I am, I didn’t even blink, when my two personal guides asked if I was ready to lock and load. As an irregular rock climber and cliff jumper, I saw this opportunity more as a totally “chulo” photo op. Not to mention, this was my second canopy tour experience. I can assuredly vouch that the long tracks of the Canyon Express circuit beat even the best track that I experienced in Omoa, Honduras. Not to mention, in Omoa, I got no such ride in a UNIMOG hog.

I’m pictured here at El Sanctuario with a group of experienced guides and guide trainees just before we take off for the days tour. Four new guides were finishing up their 20 days of training when I visited. On any given day there will be 5 or 6 guides ready to lead visitors on the sky-high adventure, though up to 8 guides may be needed on busy weekends.

Top row left to right: Erick González (guide), Marisol Marroquín (guide), Ariel Marroquín (trainee), Byron Gil (trainee), Laura McNamara, Hugo Ruíz (trainee), Yeny Díaz (guide) Bottom row left to right: Andrés Pinto (trainee), Carlos Antonio (guide).

text and photos by Laura McNamara

Just how daring are you? There are two zipline circuits offered by Antigua Canopy Tours. The first is Forest Express: six distinct zipline “flights” that send you plunging from platforms into tunnels of canopy foliage in spurts that last anywhere from 50 up to 220 meters in length. Each track is positioned at varying heights, offering participants different perspectives during their “flying” experience. The Forest Express circuit also includes an assisted rappel descent from a 12-meter high platform.

In addition to the Forest Express, Antigua Canopy Tours offers the more exhilarating supplementary circuit called Canyon Express. This circuit offers the particularly brave two more “flights” that span a whopping 430 and 520 meters across a forested canyon, offering a most unique birds-eye view of both the Finca Filadelfia coffee farm and Panchoy Valley. Graduates of this circuit can boast having dangled in mid-air more than 150 meters above the ground. While rather scary to watch, for me, the ride was quite refreshing. I was able to leisurely take-in the stunning spectacle of mountains, volcanoes and villages surrounding La Antigua Guatemala while a cool, fluttering breeze caressed my face. These are the tracks where you really do feel as if you are “flying.”

One unique aspect of this particular tour at Finca Filadelfia is its location in the topography of the terrain. Both circuits are constructed a level around 3,000 meters, where rainforest meets cloud forest. Rainforests are characterized by high rainfall and 40 to 75% of all species on Earth are considered indigenous to rainforests. At times, they are even referred to as “the world’s largest pharmacy” because of the large number of natural medicines discovered in rainforests. In contrast, cloud forests are defined by a nearly continual occurrence of low-level cloud cover at the canopy level of a forest or jungle. They can also be referred to as fog forests or even mossy forests because of the abundance of mosses.

If launching from platforms and taking off in air-borne “flights” just isn’t for you, not to stress. You can still take advantage of the UNIMOG ride and beautiful landscapes – not to mention prime photo ops of braver souls whizzing by on the canopy tour overhead – through a network of trails on the ground that echo the course of the canopy circuits zigzagging through the trees.

When I visited, the tour was currently enhancing its services by offering one additional zipline as an alternative to the assisted rappel descent. The track is brief but seems to offer a prize opportunity to capture your family and friends dangling from a zipline with a looming volcano in the background. In preparation for travelers that will begin visiting as part of cruise packages in October of this year, Antigua Canopy Tours is also currently constructing an on-site café, souvenir shop and restroom facility.

Since its opening in January of 2008, Antigua Canopy Tours has given wings to more than 10,000 visitors. You too can enjoy the experience:

A single circuit run through either Forest Express or Canyon Express is offered at the rate of $50 ($40 for national citizens and Central American residents). Kids can fly for $35.

Visitors can also opt for both circuits for $75 ($60 for national citizens and Central American residents). Children can enjoy both for $55.

If you’re keeping you feet planted on firm ground, you can tag along on the Forest Trail for $15 ($10 for national citizens and Central American residents).

Payment can be made with US dollar, Quetzales or by credit card. Antigua Canopy Tours uses an exchange rate of $1 US = Q8.25 at the time of writing.

text and photo by Laura McNamara

What a beast. The journey of “flying through the forest” with Antigua Canopy Tours begins with a ride in the unique UNIMOG, a vehicle made specifically for ascending mountains.

Aside from being quite fun to say, these military green monsters offer an enhanced riding experience because of their special design. UNIMOG Mercedes Benz off-road vehicles possess a notably high ground clearance – greater than that of a Humvee even – making the vehicles perfect for viewing the impressive landscapes of both Finca Filadelphia and the Panchoy Valley as canopy tour visitors wind their way up the mountain terrain. The UNIMOG’s flexible frame allows the vehicle to scale a rough mountain ascent with ease – these beasts roll over boulders up to one meter in height. During the ride, guides will accompany participants on the trip, explaining various aspects of the culture, history, plants and animals associated with the 750-acre farm.

UNIMOG is an acronym that represents “UNIversal-MOtor-Gerät,” Gerät being the German word for machine or device. The vehicle was first designed in Germany for use in agriculture in 1946, shortly after World War II. The permanent 4WD design with equally sized wheels allows the “tractor” to reach higher speeds than typical farm tractors on open roads. The big green beasts can be found in jungles, mountains and deserts and are used in military operations throughout the world. They are also popularly used as tourist transport for jungle ecotourism or safaris, such as the Antigua Canopy Tours operation. You can even find UNIMOG models competing in truck trials, including the Dakar Rally. Antigua Canopy Tours receives its UNIMOGS from the Danish Defense.

The UNIMOG is definitely eye-catching. When I was escorted back to my neighborhood in one of these bad boys after my canopy tour experience, several onlookers gave enthusiastic whistles and hoots and I couldn’t help but feeling a bit “righteously rugged.” Hehehe.

Check out this video of the UNIMOG from Antigua Canopy Tours:

text and photo by Laura McNamara